The main signs of a bad well pressure tank are a pump that starts every few seconds while water runs, pressure that jumps quickly between cut-in and cut-out, water coming out of the air valve, and a tank that sounds full of water top to bottom when tapped. Each one means the tank has lost its air cushion.
Water Well Drilling Weatherford replaces a lot of pressure tanks in Parker County, and most owners notice the signs of a bad well pressure tank months before they call. The pump starts clicking on during every shower. The pressure feels jumpy. Then one day the pump quits. Here’s how to spot the tank problem early.
What a pressure tank does
Inside a modern well tank is a rubber bladder or diaphragm with compressed air on one side and water on the other. The air cushion pushes water to the house so the pump doesn’t have to start every time a tap opens. When the air charge leaks away or the bladder tears, the tank fills with water and stops cushioning. From then on, the pump starts and stops with almost every draw.
The five signs
- Rapid cycling. Open a tap and listen at the switch. A healthy system runs the pump for a minute or more per start. A failing tank starts it every few seconds.
- Jumpy pressure. The gauge swings from cut-in to cut-out and back in seconds instead of drifting down slowly.
- Water at the air valve. With the system off and drained, press the valve stem on top of the tank, like a tire valve. Air is good. Water means a torn bladder.
- The tap test. Knock on the tank from top to bottom. A healthy tank sounds hollow near the top. A waterlogged one sounds solid all the way up.
- Rust, sweating or leaks at the base or seams, especially on older steel tanks.
Why it’s urgent, not cosmetic
Motor makers call for at least one minute of run time per start, so the motor can shed the heat from starting. Rapid cycling breaks that rule dozens of times an hour. The switch contacts burn, the motor windings overheat, and a $800–$1,800 tank problem becomes a $1,800–$4,500 pump replacement at Parker County depths.
A quick home check
- Turn off the well breaker.
- Open a faucet until the water stops and the gauge reads zero.
- Check the tank’s air pressure at the valve with a tire gauge.
- Compare it with your switch’s cut-in pressure. It should read 2 psi below (38 psi on a 40/60 switch).
If it’s far below, or water comes out, the tank needs recharging or replacing. If you’re not comfortable around the switch, leave it to a tech.
Sizing the replacement
The new tank should be sized to your pump’s flow, roughly one gallon of drawdown per gallon per minute, not simply matched to the old tank. See what size pressure tank do I need and well pressure tank replacement.
Bottom line
If your pump clicks on every few seconds, check the tank this week. A failed bladder can't be repaired, and every rapid start shortens the pump's life. Replacing the tank typically costs $800–$1,800; replacing a burned-out pump costs far more.
Questions about your own well? Call (817) 382-3840. A person answers 24/7.
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